Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Spinning up a storm!

Use coupon code WINTERISCOMING on my Etsy shop to save 15% on all handspun yarns through the month of November. Holiday knitting is upon us!
 
Most of these are actually yarns spun in the distant past, but they're all very nice and should have been in my Etsy inventory long ago.  The blue one at the top is particularly nice, a bouncy three-ply.  The bright blue one at the bottom of the post is fresh off the wheel and spindle - I spun the silk and camel ply on a Russian spindle, then plied the two on a spinning wheel.
 
 





Theo

When I'm on the computer, he puts his head on my chest and sighs.

Monday, October 28, 2013

So many geese flying over today

Please forgive the image quality - I took this on the bus!

Weekend Work

Local alpaca, merino, and silk


A Variety of Cloth Pads

I spent the weekend in serious production mode!  I spun and plied three skeins, finished spinning the sock yarn intended to warm my little feet, and I re-opened my original Etsy shop where I used to sell cloth menstrual pads so long ago.  I made 17 pads, wrote all the everything to make the old shop nice again, took photos, and created Facebook pages for both shops.  I hate Facebook, but maybe less than I used to?  It's amazing how much less cantankerous I've become since quitting my job and taking vitamin D!
Every time I sit down and do some serious spinning, I can't believe how happy it makes me.  Like, it's seriously shocking, which is stupid, because I KNOW I love it, but wow.  Just wow.  I love my spinning wheels!

Hugo's angora fiber, merino, baby camel, and silk


Monday, October 21, 2013

A Preservationist Romance of Hands and Heart




I finally did it - I knit a colorwork hat!  In the round, of course, so it wasn't maddening for me, and I really like the results.  It's a simple pattern, called "From Norway With Love", which includes  a matching mitten and scarf pattern in the download, but I just made the hat.  I used crap yarn, some cheapy worsted Lion Brand yarn that I bought back when I was trying to teach knitting classes at a big box store that no one ever signed up for and that the store did little to promote.  So we're not talking high art, but the yarn is wool and has a decent hand, as crap yarn goes, and I put some effort into choosing attractive colors when I bought it.  Frankly, as long as it isn't acrylic babby melting extruded goo, it's hard to not be excited and see all the good attributes when I'm buying yarn, or when I'm knitting it up.  If it's total junk, I won't bother with it, because I'm going to be spending hours with it in my hands, and then I'd like to make something that I might be interested in wearing for a few years.

It will take some time and experience to feel okay with how loosely I have to knit in order to not have serious draw in with all of the floats.  I have to consciously calm myself so that I don't worry about the work looking sloppy.  I still think that I go in for texture more than color, and I'll likely still spend more time with cables and lace, but it's a neat skill to have, and now I can knit all of those humping animals patterns I so admire on Ravelry.
Wearing earrings I made too!
I'm at home with a nasty cold today, and I'm spending the day washing fleece, drinking untold cups of tea (now with whiskey...), and studying.  I have a Spanish test tomorrow, and I'm constantly astonished by how bad I am at the language.  It's unbelievably hard to make the leap from general knowledge to some semblance of fluency.  I'm at the point where the grammar lessons are over and it's all reading and discussion, and I'm faced with how insufficient a student vocabulary is for reading fiction.

I'm also studying for my folklore classes, and I'm beginning to get intimidated by an attitude I'm seeing frequently in my readings.  There's a tendency to say "They didn't address blah blah blah" when reviewing some study, film, or book about some culture, practice, or event.  It concerns me that I'm seeing scholars assessing others' work based on what they think should be within the scope of the project, rather than looking at it in terms of what the authors intend to address.  My understanding about scholarly work is that, while there are sins of omission in some cases, a large part of the preparation for a project is determining the limits of the project, which questions it will attempt to answer, and which ones it will not be able to address.  Rarely does a project attempt to get a full sense of every aspect of a culture or community, and those that do are unable to go deep simply due to the constraints of space and time.  One book I've been reading contained criticisms about films made by people who were concerned with preserving musical techniques and songs for not containing enough biographical information about the artists.  That bothers me greatly - it wasn't the aim of the film makers to present biographies in these very limited, short films.  Any biographical information would have taken time and space from the core content.  I have to wonder if my fieldwork will always fall short because people will be more interested in criticizing the scope of the work rather than viewing the content in terms of the limits I have set.  It feels like dismissing Mondrian's paintings because they weren't photorealistic, just because you like realism and irrespective of what the artist was trying to achieve.
The other thing I'm thinking about is how to translate my interest in material culture - textile arts - into something that I can study from a folkloric standpoint.  The difference seems to be context and meaning to those who are involved in the art or craft I am studying.  I'm mostly interested in methods and materials, and the way to add the folkloric angle is to consider the meaning behind those things to the artists and to the community of which they are a part.  I deeply enjoy exploring those aspects, but, in all honesty, I'm more interested in the how than the why, which is a part of my nature as a loner craftsperson and an only child from a very small, insular family.  I've always been better at Things than People, although I like people well enough, and I love stories.

I question whether I want to be involved in folklore as a professional pursuit, but that has never been my motive for studying it.  I am casually looking for a way to have a steady day job that pays well, but it may or may not be integrated with the teaching and creating that inspires me.  I imagine that I could find a position at a small museum or cultural center, or that I could establish a fiber arts school somewhere.  I would love to be involved in the textile aspect of a living history exhibit, and it would be great if I could be a working artist as well.  I hope that my spinning supply business will take wing, because I love wool processing, handling wool, and helping new spinners.  Operating Lindentree Fiber Arts is like going shopping for spinning fiber without spending money - I get to touch the wool, wash locks, look at the pretty colors, spin samples, and sometimes spin skeins - all things that I love more than working up the finished garments.


Kindly Shetland flicked locks
Wool from Whistlestop Farm, Hillsboro, OR
I've been reading commentaries and articles from folklorists that refer to "preservationist" work as naïve and ignoring modern culture as being artificial, not worth studying, and as "othering" the cultures studied as only being interesting because they're unlike us.  I understand where they're coming from, and I saw that when I was in my previous academic life as an International Relations major,  but I disagree so strongly.  I think that modern culture IS artificial, and, while it is worth studying, I think that we have to study it with deep awareness of how commercial interests try to create culture and harness the forces of informal communication and the organic spread of cultural themes and norms.  I think that we NEED to preserve the old ways, not because they're interesting or exotic, but because, if we don't remember them,  we'll need to reinvent them when the shit hits the fan.  We need to remember how to build our own houses, make our own tools, and entertain each other without electricity.  We need to remember our stories and foodways, because there are lessons in them that we will NEED, lessons that are transmitted to society at large more effectively when they come in the form of entertainment and tradition than textbooks and scientific papers.  Yes, I am completely of the preservationist mindset, but I don't think that there's anything exotic or "other" about the things I want to preserve.  I think that it is the one way that we can remember who we are.  I want to know what people did right here 100 years ago, or 500 years ago.  I'm interested in cultures from other geographic places, but I'm more interested in right here, because I think that it's important for me to know how to thrive in this particular location, because that's where I am.  I'd like to know about the stories of my Quebecois ancestors, but I feel more pressed to understand local herbalist traditions or how they built houses on this sodden ground.

My other concern is that since our communication systems really started connecting large parts of the world, we have done our best to strip away the past and reinvent ourselves.  I might look at archaeological work with interest, and I love history, but our stories and traditions are the best way for me to connect with the breadth of human history, and particularly the history of women and the oppressed.  I can read about Lincoln, but how much better is it to hear the spirituals sung by enslaved peoples in the South?  Or to look at abolitionist quilts?  How interesting it is to read recipes written for Southern white women who had never had to cook for themselves before Emancipation, and may have been widowed as well, living for the first time independently of servants, of slaves, and of male relatives - I get so much more out of that than I do when I read the facts about Reconstruction.  Folklore is how the people ignored by history get to tell their own stories, and it is how we communicate the aspects of living that actually keep us alive in a dangerous world.  The crafts and recipes grow up in particular locales with access to a specific set of materials and tools, and we lose our ability to thrive in those places if we lose that knowledge, and then we become entirely dependent on products made elsewhere and shipped in.  That is worse than foolish - it's dangerous.  It completely removes our independence.
A fine laceweight

Right now, I seriously need some warm socks in my damp, moderately cold environment, and I can't afford them.  All of my good socks are worn thin.  I can buy crappy poly or cotton socks, but they don't do much against the damp.  I'm unemployed, and processed wool is even a bit spendy for me, and good yarn is right out.  I have tons of wool fleeces and I can spin, so I'm in serious production mode for spinning and knitting wool socks.  Now I know that most of us don't spin and knit for survival, but here I am, out of work and living on loans, with more time than money, and I actually need to make socks because I don't have them and my feet are cold and getting colder.  How great is it that I know how to do this?  How silly is it that most people in the U.S. don't?  And what happens if the economy REALLY collapses?  And shouldn't I know how to make my own knitting needles and spindles?  Remember how Norman Kennedy kept his family warm during the war by gleaning wool from dead sheep- who in America knows how to do that now?  When I was studying International Relations, we talked about how refugees can be given dry goods as food aid in other countries, but we have to get ready-to-eat rations in the affluent West - we just don't know how to make a pot of rice.  During the recent crash, people were disseminating lessons on how to make coffee to those who always just bought a hot cup and could no longer afford their lattes.  All of this frightens me.

Not that I think that we should all be diving into crafts out of fear, and we all know that making our own clothes is generally more expensive than buying them readymade - if you use store-bought materials, that is, because there are tons of cheap or free fleeces out there that need a good amount of work in processing but can be made to work in a pinch (and the handmade things last longer).  It's amazing how easily you can glean materials for little to nothing, if you have the time to invest in making them into what you need.  I worry about how we have largely turned into a culture that does not know how to repair, repurpose, and create, and I know that much of what I know about textile arts still exists because a few people have preserved the old ways during periods of time when society looked down on their practice and did its best to forget.  We've seen that story with sheep breeds, and with heirloom seeds - so often, a breed is almost lost, but one or two farmers stubbornly continue to work with it, and so we have it today.  Another criticism of preservationists is that they sometimes romanticize their subjects - but hello, how is this not romantic?  The one person standing between an ancient tradition and oblivion is a romantic figure by any definition.  If we don't recognize the romance in these things, we remove an important part of their significance.  This is also why we say that we "fall in love" with spinning, knitting, weaving, tatting, etc. - there IS romance there, right alongside history, hard work, and hard-won skills.

Fne Shetland yarn on the Vezina Canadian Production Wheel
I can't forget my humanity, and I don't want to.  I think that the voice of the author is just as important as the content, even in academic work, and it should be - it is one of the ways that a dry subject can feel relevant to the audience.  I want my work to inspire people to want to preserve and carry on the old ways, to keep them alive in a real and meaningful way that contributes to our well-being - or even survival - as a species.  And yes, it can be frustrating when people make comments about us spinners and weavers keeping the craft alive, as though there aren't tons and tons of us doing it all of the time,  but there are lots of dusty corners of the textile world that really do need our attention to keep them from dying out.  How many of us actively and frequently spin on a great wheel?  Do Chilkat weaving?  Maintain an old-school indigo bath?  Fix antique spinning wheels, or make them by hand?  I don't know the answer, but there are WAY fewer of us doing these things than spinning commercial top on modern spinning wheels or using indie dyed merino yarns to knit  Ysolda Teague patterns, and even fewer who have developed sufficient expertise to teach or write about these practices - which is what really keeps the arts alive. 

(By the way, Ysolda rocks, and there's nothing wrong with knitting or spinning any particular way - whatever makes you happy, and the world smiles a little whenever someone turns time into warmth, but I say these things just to point out that there are subgroups of subgroups.  Where villages used to devote time to a particular craft, now there are 200 people doing it, few of whom live close enough to each other to interact face to face, and that isn't exactly a recipe for a long-lasting, vibrant art form.  Now if three of those people decide to dedicate some energy to teaching their craft, it can make a huge difference in its future.)
I guess I'm different from most of the others in my classes in that I'm interested in learning about cultural practices in order to practice them myself.  I think that actively maintaining our human traditions is a personal responsibility in a time when commerce seeks to homogenize culture and determine our practices and needs through advertising.  I think that simply recording my findings is insufficient, although it is important too, as it can be one of the ways that the next generation finds what it needs.  I think that it is dangerous to move through the world as if we don't need to know who we are or how to create the things we consider essential for a good life.  I think that we all need to take an interest in the past and try to remember how to be self-sufficient, and to do these things in joy, and beauty, and love, honoring our connections and celebrating our clever hands.  Let us also create things that those who come later will strive to preserve.

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Colorwork?

I look a Fair Isle knitting class today.  I've never done colorwork before, other than very simple striped scarves, mostly because I was snobby about color and only wanted to do cables and lace in solid colors.  I'm still not convinced that I will love the final products, but I was tired of not knowing how to do it.  I have whole Shetland fleeces to spin in dark moorit, light moorit, mioget, medium grey, silver, and white, so it seems prudent to learn Fair Isle and work up a couple of hats while I have so much wool in such a color range.  It's also nice to take a knitting class and have some confirmation that I'm not totally screwing it up, since I'm self-taught and wouldn't necessarily know any better.

I have opinions: Knitting with both hands sucks.  It sucks because knitting English style sucks.  Also, purling sucks.  I'm glad that I can do these things, but I seriously can't wait to go back to my comfort zone and knit in the round, only purling for pattern stitches and ribbing, and only in Continental style.  My one nod to my comforts is that I brought circular needles and didn't even glance at straight needles, because they suck (even though they're really really pretty).  I can't wait to get home to my dpns.  If I could get dps long enough (I hear they have them in Japan...), I would knit all of my sweaters with them, and only use circs for lace shawls.  The Virgin Mary knit her sweaters on dpns, so why can't I???  (Actual photo--->>>)

The class today, by the way, was at Soft Horizons in Eugene.  It's beyond gorgeous, in a Victorian house and totally packed with beautiful yarn and a small, tasteful selection of spinning fiber.  They stock the only art yarn that I have ever liked - a huge accomplishment - and the staff are sweet.  The teacher is the owner of the store, and she was great.  There were only three of us in the class, and I really appreciated the way that she interacted with us, giving us individual attention but enough time to get comfortable and practice the techniques.  The shop is walking distance from the University of Oregon, so I can pop by and knit for a while after class.

The more I get to know Eugene, the more I like it here!  Especially as a fiber artist, this is a great town, full of resources for knitting and spinning, and it's just beautiful.  I feel so lucky.


Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Cutting the Gordian Knit



Yesterday, Theo and I stopped at a trailhead I had wanted to explore for a while.  It is about ten miles from home and I pass it on my daily commute.  It is part of the riverbed beyond the dam, where old tree stumps protrude from muddy banks that clearly were once at the bottom of the river.

 
 
I also finished a handspun sock out of Manx Loaghton wool, one of my favorites.  I love springy wool, and this one fits the bill!  I spun a light worsted/DK 2-ply, then knitted it densely using sz 1 needles.  This works beautifully because 1. I knit so loosely, so #1s are like #3s or larger for me, and 2. manx loaghtan is so fluffy and elastic that a worsted weight yarn is actually much lighter than it sounds  and works into a lightweight, squishy, warm fabric with plenty of give despite the density.  I like a sock to really hug my foot, and I like them dense, so this is pretty much my ideal sock wool.
 
I'm using this knit to try an afterthought heel for the first time, so I'll update when I find out how that goes.  I have a pair of handknitted socks from another knitter who almost exclusively uses afterthought heels.  I like solutions like that - cutting the Gordian Knit, as it were.  I'm eager to try my first steek, and I'm more than halfway through the body of the sweater that's going to Get It.
 
I washed llama last night, and I have many more washed wool locks available on Etsy now.  It still isn't rewarding me financially right now, but it's good for me to be working toward something approximating independence as a craftsperson.  I'm also wondering if I should put some free tutorials up on the web for wool prep, spinning, etc.
 
If only I didn't have a debilitating headache every other night, I might actually get somewhere someday!

Imaginero

We watched a film in class today about an imaginero, an image maker, in the high plateau of Argentina.  In it, there were some very clear scenes of shearing, spinning, and weaving.  Shearing took place using a simple knife, with the sheep on the ground with legs tied.  The people must have very steady hands and confidence, as they shear exactly how we're told not to, pulling the wool up and stretching out the skin in a way that would easily lead to cuts, making it hard to discern where skin ends and wool begins.  This may have just been due to the particular part of shearing that made it into the final edit - we only saw her shear the less desirable belly wool, which most of us skirt out.  Maybe she does it differently along the back and sides?  We see Aurelia, wife of the imaginero, walking with the small flock of sheep and spinning using a bottom whorl spindle with a very long shaft.  She spins like the Navajo, drafting out a length and getting some twist into it, then tugging the half-spun yarn to distribute the twist and even out the diameter.  She spins and walks, but, when the sheep settle into a grazing spot, she crouches and supports the spindle on the ground to spin.  I was excited to see that she does what I do when I use a supported spindle - she makes a temporary mini cop near the tip, winds on up there for a while, then (I presume) unwinds and rewinds it onto the large cop at the bottom of the spindle.  Thus the long shaft.  The wool appears to be of marginal quality, similar to churro of some type, but perhaps leaning more toward a medium wool than a coarse wool.  The yarn is thick, maybe a worsted weight single, and she spins from something approximating roving.  My favorite part was the weaving.  Hermogenes, the imaginero, weaves on a loom that is tensioned like a backstrap loom, but with a hand-built frame and treadle system, making the actual motion of weaving resemble a standard modern floor loom.  The wooden parts are rough and lashed together - which is interesting, considering that we see lots of his handwork, and it is all very finished and intricate.  I believe that this loom, without a set tension system (no beams, minimal frame) would be easy to collapse and store, to set up in a variety of locations, or even to load on a donkey and transport if needed. 

Anyway, I highly recommend this film, if you can get it.  It is by Argentine director Jorge Preloran and pretty much just available through interlibrary loan.  I have it on order to watch again, primarily because the copy we had in class was poor quality, a film of a film, and Hermogenes' narration is translated into English dubbed over the original.  The one available on loan is in Spanish, which I'll enjoy more, and I did catch that the translation was wanting some of the nuance and intonation provided by the imaginero.

Monday, October 7, 2013

My Boy

"Ok, yeah, you're knitting, and that's very nice.  But you really need to understand that it's time to THROW THE BALL."

Fall in the Foothills


Being in the presence of great and ancient natural beauty is like being kicked in the gut by the greatest kung fu artist in the world. 

I was feeling low-energy and out of sorts yesterday, but it was a glorious autumn day, so Theo and I went for a drive out east, farther into the foothills.  I discovered that the road goes on for just ten miles or so before it starts to rapidly gain altitude. There is a pass with a ski area at the top, then you come to the shores of Odell Lake.  At just under 5000', and 5 miles wide, it feels like a sea at the very top of the world.  I've never been to any of the great Cascade lakes, although I've always wanted to see Crater Lake, and Waldo Lake is apparently just about the same distance from me as Odell, or a bit closer.  Anyway, the parks are all closed due to the government shutdown, so we just stopped at viewpoints along the way.  I was in no shape for hiking, so it all worked out.  We found one viewpoint that had easy access to the lakeshore, so Theo and I went down, and Theo had a little swim.  It was only about 70 degrees outside, and he doesn't want to swim too much unless it's really hot out, so he just dove in after sticks and had a grand time.  So did I - it's all about making the dog happy, right?

The weekend was otherwise devoted to scouring fleeces.  I've gotten through two 2.5 lb fleeces - one Icelandic and one Shetland from my favorite Shetland farm, Whistlestop Farm.  I did some carding, and listed some new batts and natural wool locks on Etsy.  I'm also working on spinning some sportweight sock yarn from Robin's fleece so that I may have a chance at actually knitting some warm socks by the time that it gets really cold.  I've been spinning on my favorite wheel, snuggled up with hot cocoa, sitting on my fancy couch in my little cottage while the rain drenches the forest.  Perfect!

I spun some samples of the two fleeces.  The Shetland has sound tips, unlike most tippy Shetlands I've processed, so I don't have to cut or pull off the tips before spinning.  I just pulled a fat lock into a rough approximation of top, and spun it up, tip and all.  It made a beautiful dark brown yarn with a subtle heathered effect due to the lighter tips, and it was nice and soft, very even and smooth, with decent elasticity, even though this isn't the crimpiest Shetland ever.  I also separated the tog and thel of the Icelandic and spun a nice sample of bright white laceweight thel yarn.  It was very pretty and decently soft, with good structure and a light halo.  There's basically no crimp to speak of, so it took a good amount of twist and had more drape and softness than elasticity.  I would be inclined to use this in a lace project if I'm separating the coats.  What I actually have in mind is a wild-looking felting project...


These fleeces represent part of a huge backlog of EVERYTHING in my life from the last year of near-constant debilitating illness and depression.  I have two more Shetlands, a Corriedale X lamb, a Rambouillet X Cheviot, a llama, and two Jacobs from the past year.  I kept accumulating with the idea that I would feel better and just plow right through them, sell half of each and spin the rest, but it took far longer than I could have imagined.  Now I really am plowing through them, and I'm glad to have them, even if I'm a bit intimidated by the prospect of pounds upon pounds of greasy wool calling out to be washed!  I've definitely gathered an impressive stash in the six years or so since I started spinning, and I'm always grateful for it, but it's kind of crazy for me to have so much when, up until now, I've had so little time to devote to using it.  I'm also a skilled but dreadfully slow knitter, and what I really need is to find a spinning student who is a skilled and astonishingly fast knitter who will trade knitting services for spinning instruction.  I need some socks!

If you hear of such a person, let me know...

Thursday, October 3, 2013

October! The magic time!


October is my favorite month, my magic time, a time of settling into great change and of becoming more fully myself.  It's an amazingly gorgeous, perfect fall day in my valley.  I decided to take a slow day, and I drove to school in the afternoon (I had only one class at 2 PM due to my other prof having to go to a conference) so that Theo and I could have a slow, happy, productive day.  I still have much to do to get my things organized after moving the last load down - remember, I came home late, sick, in a typhoon, and with the first day of school starting the next morning!  Things have just had to sit until I have time.  We came into Eugene to get me to class, and then to pick up some bins for organizing my wool, which is simply EVERYWHERE right now, and I can't stand it!  We also took the time to get him out running around on the ridge, which is beyond beautiful with the autumn leaves and golden light of fall.  There's a pumpkin on the porch, and I fully intend on decorating for Halloween/All-souls/All-saints even if it's just me and the critters!  I have my own dead to honor, even if alone.

Last night I came home as the daylight was waning, and a big young buck was grazing in the lawn.  I'm always astonished by how large the deer are here, and yet how light.  He watched me pull in, then sprang up and bounded across the road, up the hill, and out of sight among the cedars.



Having Theo here with me is great, but my life feels completely different with my kitty, Celia, sleeping next to me.  Theo isn't very cuddly, but Cece is all love.  I don't feel lonely anymore.

School is great.  I didn't realize before how much folklore incorporates material culture, and that makes it even more relevant for my interests.  I'm wondering if I can get away with exploring culturally-specific breeds of domestic animals as folklore... I would love to do a folklore project on the Navajo Churro.  I'm also in an upper-level Spanish class, scared to death, but it's SO GOOD for me to be uncomfortable, so I can't complain!

The newly-repaired flyers for the Frank Fell/Mayville wheel and the little parlor wheel are great, and I've finally gotten a little bit of spinning done on those wheels.  Both are lovely, although I will always be partial to that Mayville wheel.  The wee sample yarn on the top photo was spun on the Vezina CPW and plied on the Fell.

All the fiber in this post is on Etsy, by the way.  Happy Spinning, and Happy October!